BORNHOLM is a Danish island in the Baltic Sea off the south coast of Sweden. In its north are the clifftop ruins of Hammershus, a medieval castle. In 2017 Bornholm became the first place in Europe to be designated a World Craft Region for its creative culture of textiles, pottery, art and glassware shaping. Bornholm keeps alive the traditions of smoking fish and today it’s still possible to visit its distinctive white-towered smokehouses